Canosa di Puglia was founded by Greeks but you who would have known? The Romans were here too, but all of the Greek and Roman artifacts are found at the British Museum, Villa Giulia in Rome, Taranto Museum, and other non-Canosan museums. The only thing that seems to matter here is the favabean. They treat them like oysters! Ah to be a fava in this town. Up and down the muddy streets (it hasn’t stopped raining all month) are old men, some with grandkids, or someone’s kids, selling favas. Some have crates, others trucks, mostly just a bed sheet or parachute covered in bright green dirty pods!
When in Canosa, Check out locanda di Nunno ristorante (Via Balilla 2 70053 Canosa Di Puglia - 0883 61 50 96 – no website) Antonio, the young handsome owner, will treat you like royalty in this incredibly chic understated Restaurant of “vippai” of the Region. Internationally renowned for its local ingredients and creative flair. If you come in spring, most of the menu will include fava beans (surprise!) and you can find the signore plucking and shucking these pods like no tomorrow.
Fava bean purèe is mildly sweet and salty and herbacious, fava bean gnocchi on top with vongole veraci (small local clams) is delicately exquisite and respects the fresh earthly flavor without much noise. They could use some chiles from their neighbors on the sea but let’s just say it’s a “mild” awakening to springs flavors.
Canosa is also home of the oldest Saline (salt mines) in Italy. Originally, this was Lake Salpi which eventually dried up, leaving behind copious amounts of sweet sea salt that splashed over into the lake. This swampy area (near Margherita) now houses millions of pink flamingoes for their winter vacation.
Itinerary recommendation: Federico II